The pre-ride check
Five minutes before you leave, in the same order every time: tyres, brakes, bolts, drivetrain, lights. It's what prevents most breakdowns and nasty surprises on the road.
What you need
- A pump with a pressure gauge
- Your hands and your ears
Why
Most bike problems give a warning: a tyre losing air since the day before, a loose wheel, a pad worn to the end. A quick look over the bike, always in the same order, lets you spot them before you leave rather than at the roadside.
An easy way to remember it: work from the bottom up, from the wheels to the handlebar. British cycling groups teach the same idea as the "M-check": you trace the shape of an M over the bike, from the rear wheel to the front wheel. With practice, the whole round takes two or three minutes.
Steps
1. Tyres: pressure and condition
Inflate to the pressure printed on the tyre sidewall, between the minimum and the maximum (in bar or psi). The lighter you are and the rougher the trail, the lower you can go within that range; go higher on smooth roads. For a precise starting point, tyre makers offer calculators based on your weight and tyre width (Schwalbe, for example).
2. Wheels: secure and straight
Check that each quick release is closed, lever folded against the frame or fork, or that the axle is tight. Lift the front of the bike and slap the tyre downwards: the wheel mustn't move in the fork. Spin each wheel: it shouldn't rub on the brake pads or wobble noticeably.
3. Brakes: levers and stopping
Squeeze both levers: they should be firm and stop well before the bar. With the brakes on, push the bike forwards then backwards: it mustn't roll. If a lever is soft, or you're in any doubt, follow the Check your brakes guide before you leave.
4. Headset and bolts
With the front brake on, rock the bike back and forth with one hand on the joint between frame and fork: a "clunk" or play you can feel under your fingers comes from the headset, which needs adjusting. (Slight movement can also come from the brake pads: the hand on the joint tells you which.) Hold the front wheel between your knees and try to turn the handlebar: it mustn't move. Try to twist the saddle: it should stay in line.
Last test: lift the bike about ten centimetres and let it drop onto its wheels. A rattle, a clatter? Find what's loose (mudguards, rack, bottle cage, lights).
5. Drivetrain
Turn the pedals by hand with the rear wheel lifted, or during the first few metres, and run through the gears. The chain should be clean and quiet; if it squeaks or looks dry, see Clean and lube your chain.
6. Lights and kit
If you'll be back late or the weather is grey: front and rear lights charged and fitted. In your bag: a spare tube, tyre levers, a pump, and something to drink. The full list is in Getting started.
If something's wrong
| What you notice | What to do |
|---|---|
| Tyre flat since yesterday | a slow puncture: fix it before you leave |
| Brake lever soft or reaching the bar | don't ride: check the brakes |
| Play in the headset, wheel moving | tighten it, or visit a shop |
| Chain skipping or gears catching | adjust the derailleur |
What next
This check doesn't replace regular maintenance: the logbook tells you when to lube the chain, check the pads or measure chain wear.
Sources
This guide was checked against the following documents:
- Cycling UK, Before you set off (the M-check)
- British Cycling, The M-Check
- Schwalbe, pressures by rider weight and tyre width
- BikeTips, Hookless rims explained (5 bar limit)
Values vary between models: your part's manual always takes precedence.